A: No, we dislike home solicitation as much as you do. Your Perennial Lawn and Landscape service representative is state licensed or certified, meaning that he has gone through extensive training for competency in the areas of turf grass management, safe product handling, and courteous customer service. If something extra is needed to improve the appearance of your lawn we will recommend it at the time of service.

A: Yes, Perennial Lawn and Landscape guarantees substantial weed reduction, control of surface insects and healthy lawn color (except under drought conditions). Then if you are not satisfied, call us and we will continue working with you until you are satisfied, or we will return the cost of your last treatment.

A: Perennial Lawn and Landscapes’ first treatment is done between late March and early May. After your first treatment you can expect a visit every 5-7 weeks thereafter. Please refer back to our program overview for more details.

A: You should mow the grass with the mower deck at the highest setting or at least 3 inches. Each time you mow, you should cut no more than 1/3 of the grass blade. A good rule of thumb is mow high, often and change directions each mowing. A sharp mower blade will give your lawn a clean, manicured appearance. It will also deter diseases, from entering the plant through injury caused by a dull mower blade.

A: If a granular fertilizer was applied it is OK to mow anytime. When a liquid treatment of broadleaf weed control has been applied please wait 24-48 hours to mow. This allows the herbicide’s active ingredient to move through the plant before cutting it off. If you are not sure what was applied, please refer to your service report for this information.

A: No, none of our treatments require watering. While adequate control has been achieved without watering, the product label recommends watering in grub and surface insect control for optimal results.

A: It is of the utmost importance that our customers, pets, and employees are safe at all times. The fertilizer used by your Perennial Lawn and Landscape representative is the same product sold in retail stores to do-it-yourselfers. Control products for weeds and insects can be applied safely if handled properly and according to instructions on the product label. The key to safety is having a licensed professional apply the product according to the proper labeled rate and simply following the safety instructions on your service report.

A: When a granular fertilizer only treatment has been applied, you can continue your regular lawn activities. Limit lawn activities when a control product has been applied for crabgrass or insects. Following adequate rainfall the product will move into the soil making it safe to resume all activities. When a liquid treatment has been applied, wait until your lawn has completely dried before resuming activities. Keep in mind that factors such as temperature and humidity can influence drying time. Subsequent morning dews should be allowed to dry until adequate rainfall moves the active ingredient off the grass blades.

A: Yes, some weeds are classified as “hard to control.” Some of the most common ones are wild violet, wild strawberry, oxalis and ground ivy. These weeds sometimes require multiple treatments and different chemicals to achieve control. Common broadleaf weeds such as dandelion, plantain and yellow rocket are easily controlled usually with one application. The herbicides used to control these types of weeds work only on a post-emergent basis. They will not control new weeds from germinating. A dense tall mowed lawn is still the best defense against weeds.

A: No, it is common myth that if moles are present in your lawn, that you must have grubs. The fact is that up to 90 percent of a mole’s diet is made up of earthworms because they are abundant in the soil year round. The other 10 percent of their diet consists of millipedes, ants, grub larvae, and other insects. Please refer to our mole page under common lawn problems for more information on moles.

A: Aeration can be beneficial to your lawn when performed in the spring or the fall when adequate soil moisture is present. Fall aeration is preferred over spring where a pre-emergent control has been applied. Spring aeration will disturb this chemical barrier allowing crabgrass and other summer annual weeds to germinate. Fall is also the best time to overseed following lawn aeration. Please refer to our additional services page for more information on lawn aeration.

A: Fall is the best time to plant grass seed whether you are planning a total lawn renovation or fixing up a few problem areas. The soil temperatures are warmer and more frequent rainfall accelerates germination. There is also much less competition with annual weeds and grasses when seeding is done in the fall. The most important thing to remember for a successful seeding project is the seed to soil contact. This means that the soil must first be loosened and the seed then incorporated into it. Spreading grass seed onto hard compacted soil will result in poor, if any seed germination.

A: You can apply lime at anytime during the year but spring and fall are best. The increase in rainfall at this time of the year will help work the limestone into the soil. Please refer to our services page for more information on lime.